Spice
Where: Bali Hai, 37 North Beach Road, Westbrook
Open: Tuesday 10.30am-4pm, Wednesday to Friday 10.30am-8pm, Saturday 10am-9pm, Sunday 11am-3pm.
Call: 032 943 3558
It was the Advocate’s birthday and so the bridge group trekked north to celebrate. I chose Spice as I hadn’t eaten here in a long time, since before the Covid pandemic so rudely interrupted and changed the way we eat.
I had visions of one of the fabulous curries that Linda and Russell Burger’s simple but homely restaurant serves.
By day, there are few better places to sit outside and admire the ocean. But on a Saturday evening, we had to be content with sitting inside and enjoy looking at the lights of the ships out at sea.
The menu has changed little since my last visit. Which, in some ways, was a relief, because we wanted those old constants, but I do feel the kitchen is worth so much more, and could challenge itself more to bring new dishes that tell a distinctive Durban story. But that aside…
This bunch were not really starter eaters ‒ they prefer saving space for their main course, but Trevor and I shared a special of coriander fish cakes with a light salad (R75). It got the thumbs up from both of us. Other options might include tempura cumin spiced prawns, or smoked salmon and fried aubergine. The duck salad with mango comes highly recommended, a dish from the Florida Road days.
So as not to make the others feel left out, the kitchen brought out little demitasse cups filled with a lovely spicy lentil soup to keep them amused. The complementary rosemary and seasalt focaccia also went down well.
Three of us knew what we were going to eat, and looked no further than the lamb curry (R195) served with rice, roti, papadum and sambals. It was every bit as good as I remembered it, with a wonderful depth of flavour and spicing without being overly hot. Okay, the Advocate wanted his hot, but I was happy with medium. I ordered an extra roti to mop up the leftover gravy in the bowl. This was worth the drive north.
Spice also offers a prawn and tamarind fish curry, both of which I’ve enjoyed previously. New on the menu is an aubergine and chilli eggs in a tomato chutney, a vegetarian option.
The Poet relished her fillet steak (R195) with mushroom sauce (R40) which was grilled perfectly to order. Vivek feasted on the lamb cutlets (R285), four meaty chops cooked perfectly and served with fat rustic chips. Linda certainly hasn’t lost her touch at the grill.
Dilly went for another Spice classic that’s been on the menu since the Bill Clinton/Bill Gates era ‒ Barney’s seafood bake (R208), a sort of seafood shepherd’s pie, if you will, with prawns and fresh fish and calamari. Good, as always. The Coca Cola guy tried the duck (R268). This was crispy duck roasted with cumin and served in a port, orange and pineapple sauce with cabbage and potato bake. Except he opted for chips. Previously here, I’d had their duck in a haneport sauce which was a little too sweet. This got the balance right nicely. He really enjoyed his meal. His wife enjoyed a special of Parmesan chicken schnitzel (R189) which certainly looked good.
Desserts are limited, but include a macadamia nougat cheesecake, a coffee crème brȗlée and Amarula chocolate mousse. It being a chilly night, four of us went for the apple crumble (R75) which hit the spot, a warm rich apple filling topped with a lovely buttery crumble.
Food: 4
Service: 3½
Ambience: 4
The Bill: R2 656 for eight.
The Independent on Saturday